

Lockouts · Mississauga
Broken Key Extraction
The key went in like any other morning, you turned it, and something gave with a small metallic click.
In plain words
Two facts shape the job before the locksmith arrives: whether the door is locked or unlocked, and whether any of the key is showing. A fragment that protrudes can often be gripped and drawn straight out. One flush or deep needs extractors worked in alongside it. If the plug turned before the key broke, it has to be eased back to its resting position first so the pins line up and release the blade. A locked door means the extraction is followed by opening the lock; an unlocked one means securing it is the priority. Either way the door ends up locking with a key that fits.
How the visit goesThe padlock on the shed has been stiff all summer. Today the key twisted, cracked at the tip, and left the end buried deep in the keyway. The rest came out in your hand, and the padlock is still closed.
Broken Key Extraction
How the visit goes


The half in your hand
The bow and stub you are holding are worth a look before anything else. The cuts on it identify the key blank and give most of the bitting, so a replacement can be read straight from it and the fragment once they are side by side. Its condition tells a story too: thinning at the cuts, a slight bend, a crack line or a shiny worn tip all say the key was near the end of its life. The locksmith also asks about spares. A crisp spare, or the key code tag that came with the lock, is a better pattern for the new key than any worn copy.
Drawing it out with a hook extractor
Every keyway has grooves, called wards, that run along its length above and below the blade. A hook extractor is a slim strip of spring steel thin enough to ride in one of those grooves beside the fragment. The locksmith slides it in past the broken piece, rotates it slightly so the barbed tip catches a cut in the blade, and draws it back out in a straight line. The pins are lifted clear as the piece passes them, exactly as they are when a key is withdrawn. It is a patient, felt process, and the cylinder is untouched by it.
A lock that turns like it should
The visit closes with the lock proving itself. The new key goes in fully, turns through its full travel and comes out without a catch, from both sides, first with the door swung open, then with it shut against the strike. The bolt is watched seating fully in its pocket. You are shown the fragment that came out and told what condition the cylinder was in. Anything the locksmith noticed, a strike screw backing out or a hinge that has dropped, is pointed out so it is not a surprise later. The door is locked with your own new key as the last act of the visit.
Broken Key Extraction
In the van
Lock de-icer
Key blanks and code cutter
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Compressed air for the keyway
Key gauge and decoder

Broken Key Extraction
What affects the quote
When you call
Whatever hour you call about a broken key extraction — morning, evening, a weekend or a holiday — the amount is the same. Locksmiths are reachable at any time, and the exact figure is confirmed on site once the technician has seen how deep the fragment sits.
Condition of the cylinder
Worn pins, a loose cap, grit or corrosion found after the piece is out may call for a service, a rekey or a new cylinder, each explained and quoted separately.
How deep the fragment sits
A piece standing above the cylinder face is the simplest case. One flush with the face or deep behind the pins takes longer, finer work with hooks and spirals, and the quote reflects that.
What to have ready
- Would you like extra keys cut while the locksmith is there?
- Do you have a spare key that works, or the key code tag from the lock?
- Is it a car key with a chip or remote buttons in the head?
Broken Key Extraction: questions
QuestionsWhat should I do while I wait for the locksmith?
Put both halves of the key somewhere safe, note whether the door or vehicle is locked, and leave the keyway alone. If it is bitter cold, keep the storm door closed so the lock is not taking freezing rain. Have identification ready, or vehicle papers for a car. If the door is open, stay near it. That is all; the extraction goes smoother for a lock nobody has poked at.
Why did my key break at all?
Often fatigue, though not the only cause. A brass blade is weakest where the deepest cut leaves the least metal, and thousands of turns can slowly work a crack into that spot. Then one morning something asks more of it: a frozen cylinder, a bolt binding in a swollen door, grit in the keyway, or turning before the key was fully in. A bent, worn or poorly cut key can also fail on its own, with no such trigger. The lock is inspected afterwards to find which applied.
Can a new key be made from the two broken halves?
Usually. Laid end to end, the halves show the full set of cuts and identify the blank, and a locksmith reads them with a gauge and cuts a fresh key to those depths on a code machine. That is better than tracing the broken blade on a duplicator, because a worn key copied is a worn key repeated. If a spare or the key code exists, that is used instead.
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